We set the alarm early so we would have time to get fry jacks for breakfast. I love them! They’re cheap, filling and very tasty. My light beignet was filled with eggs and cheese this morning. We ate them by the sea, with the sound of the wind in the palm trees above us.
We got the 8am ferry to Belize City. Thankfully, we had cover today to protect us from the wind and the sun.
The taxi to the bus station took us through the town. We’ve haven’t really had a chance to explore it, but I think we’ve seen enough. It’s not very attractive, and it has a reputation for being dangerous.
Belize has its fair share of issues. The unemployment rate is high (10.1%), the prevalence of HIV/AIDS is the highest in Central America (2.1%), and in recent years, it has become a major transit route for illegal drugs.
Belize is quite a melting pot. From the Garifuna (responsible for the distinctly Afro-Caribbean vibe of Caye Caulker), Mayans, Creoles to the Mestizos and Mennonites.
Andy did get a glimpse of the swing bridge and got giddily excited. The bridge was build in Liverpool in 1922 and was installed in 1923. It is the oldest swing bridge in Central America and the one of the few manually operated swing bridges in the world still in use.
Our journey to San Ignacio took about two hours, stopping briefly in Belmopan – the capital. We travelled in one of those old American school bus. There was plenty to look at along the way, and the driver treated us to a great playlist. We passed Mennonite farms. The Mennonites speak German and form 4% of the population; they are mostly farmers and crafstmen and were described to us as living a life similar to the Amish).
I didn’t know what to expect of San Ignacio. It turns out to be an ugly town, built principally around tourism; there are many activities to do around here.
We made our way to the market for lunch. We ate pupusas, a thick handmade corn tortilla with beans and cheese and served with curtido (a lightly fermented cabbage slaw with red chillies and vinegar). Delicious!
Back to the bus station, we got a bus towards Benque and got off after twenty minutes. We crossed the Mopan river via a hand-cranked ferry, and then walked up a hill for about a mile.
Our hard work was rewarded when we got to the Xunantunich ruins. The site peaked around AD 600 to AD 650 and was abandoned due to an unknown violent event in approximately AD 750.
The climb to El Castillo rewarded us with gorgeous views over lush green distant hills and into neighbouring Guatemala (our next destination). In fact, the views were that good that we climbed up to the very top twice, without too much effort (are we getting fitter?).
Very little of the site is excavated. The usual story sadly. There is money for excavation, but not for restoration and maintenance.
It’s a stunning site. Compact yet extremely attractive.
Merry Christmas!
And to you too…